Malfatti with Pancetta and Cherry Tomatoes

Malfatti - literally "badly made" - are not as tricky to shape as you think. A lot of fresh pastas are fussy and delicate, but this sturdy gnocchi-esque dumpling dough is a breeze to work with - low pressure, high participation, big payoff. You don't need any fancy equipment, just plenty of workspace to spread out on. For a long, lazy lunch menu serve this pasta alongside sea bream crudo, tomatoes and haricots verts, grilled turbot, and tiramisù with cookies.

1 cup all-purpose flour, unbleached
2 cups whole-milk fresh ricotta, preferably box-drained
1 large egg, room temperature
6 oz Parmesan cheese, finely grated
1½ tsp. kosher salt
4 oz pancetta (Italian bacon), thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups Sun Gold and/or cherry tomatoes
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
black pepper, freshly ground
½ lemon

To Serve:
Parmesan cheese

Dust a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet generously with flour; set aside. Place ricotta in the center of cheesecloth. Gather up the sides in your hands and wring out excess liquid. Transfer ricotta to a few sheets of paper towels and pat dry with more paper towels.

Pulse ricotta, egg, 6 oz Parmesan, and 1½ tsp. salt in a food processor to combine. Transfer to a large bowl; sift in 1 cup flour and mix until just barely combined (try not to overmix). Scrape ricotta mixture onto a floured surface and divide into 4 pieces. Roll each piece into a 22x¾" rope. Cut into ¾" pieces and place dumplings on prepared baking sheet.

Combine pancetta and 3 Tbsp. oil in a cold large skillet and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until pancetta is brown and crisp, 6-8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl; reserve skillet.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a simmer (do not let it boil). Working in batches if needed, cook dumplings until they expand in size and float to the surface, about 3 minutes.

Ladle about ¾ cup pasta cooking liquid into reserved skillet and add dumplings, tomatoes, and butter. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring gently (don't toss), until sauce thickens slightly and coats dumplings, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper.

Divide malfatti among bowls. Finely grate lemon zest over, drizzle with oil, and top with pancetta and Parmesan.

Makes 8 servings.