Saffron Cake (Cornwall English)

This age-old recipe from Cornwall uses the delicate spice saffron to flavour the fruit bread. Serve for dessert or along with a cup of tea. Saffron is an ingredient imbued with an air of exoticism, sensuality and beauty. Its musty perfume and concentrated potency both awaken the senses and astonish - how can such a tiny amount of what looks so meaningless release such colour and scent? The labour intensity of harvesting saffron (each stigma removed by hand, 4,300 flowers to be visited to form an ounce of weight), and thereby the cost of the end product, have also added to its status. Stories of Phoenician sailors landing on the rugged Cornish coast to barter with saffron in exchange for tin, have increased its romantic image.

butter, softened, plus extra for greasing (25 g)
milk, plus extra, if needed (125 mL)
2-3 large pinches saffron strands
3 Tbsp. Cornish clotted cream
strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting (225 g)
¼ tsp. sea salt
1 pkg fast-action dried yeast (7 g)
golden caster sugar (25 g)
½ tsp. ground mixed spice
sultanas (25 g)
raisins (25 g)
1 Tbsp. pure clear honey

Grease a long, thin 500 g loaf tin with butter and set aside.

Heat the milk in a small pan over a low heat until just below simmering point. Stir in the saffron strands and leave to infuse for about 15 minutes off the heat.

Add the cream to the milk and saffron in the pan and return to a low heat. Warm (but don’t boil) for 2 minutes. Meanwhile, sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Stir in the yeast, sugar and mixed spice. Make a well in the centre and add the warm milk mixture. Mix well to make a soft dough, adding extra milk if needed.

Turn out onto a floured surface and knead for about 15 minutes, gradually adding the butter and dried fruit as you go, until the dough is soft and elastic. Pop into a lightly oiled bowl and cover with cling film. Leave in a warm place for about 1 hour or until at least doubled in size.

Punch the dough in the bowl to ‘knock back’, then turn out onto a floured surface and knead for 5 minutes. Split the dough into 3 even pieces and roll out into long ’sausages’, just a little longer than the tin. Plait the dough together and tuck the ends under as you lift it into the tin. Cover with some lightly greased cling film and leave in a warm place for at least 1½ hours or until doubled in size again.

Preheat the oven to 355°F (180°C, Fan 160°C, Gas Mark 4).

Bake the loaf for 25 minutes, until risen and golden. Remove from the oven and brush with the honey. Leave to cool in the tin for 5-10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Cut into thick slices and spread with more clotted cream or butter to serve, if you like.

Cook's Notes: You can make 6 individual buns, instead of a whole loaf, just bake for 15-20 minutes on a baking sheet.