Oyster Ketchup

The 19th century was a golden age for ketchup. Cookbooks featured recipes for ketchups made of oysters, mussels, mushrooms, walnuts, lemons, celery and even fruits like plums and peaches. Usually, components were either boiled down into a syrup-like consistency or left to sit with salt for extended periods of time. Both these processes led to a highly concentrated end product: a salty, spicy flavor bomb. One oyster ketchup recipe called for 100 oysters, three pints of white wine and lemon peels spiked with mace and cloves.

16 live oysters, shucked, the liquid reserved
2½ cups dry Sherry (625 mL)
2 Tbsp. sea salt (30 mL)
½ tsp. ground mace (2 mL)
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper (1 mL)
1 Tbsp. Brandy (optional) (15 mL)

Lb the oysters in a mortar, and add the oyster liquor and the sherry. Bring the mixture to a boil, then add the sea salt, mace and cayenne pepper.

Boil up again, skim, then strain through a sieve. Stir in the brandy.

Put in jars and cover. The ketchup will keep for 6 weeks, if refrigerated.

Makes about 2½ pints (1½ L).

Cook's Notes: Use mussels instead of oysters. A pounded anchovy or two may also be added.