Mustard Pickles (English Piccalilli)

english-piccalilli2 Although piccalilli is one of Britain's favourite pickled dishes, surprisingly, its origins remain something of a mystery. Piccalilli - sometimes referred to as English Mustard Pickle - is simply a yellow-coloured relish consisting of vegetables including cauliflower, pearl onions, cucumbers, capers, and spices, with a tangy vinegary taste. Perhaps due to its international influences and many variations in former English and Dutch colonies, this yellow dollop of veggies and spices is a must for buffet tables, plates of cooked ham, cold beef, and the famous ploughman's lunch. It's easy to make and will keep for several months in sealed jars. Measuring the ingredients with a kitchen scale will ensure the best results and maintain a more balanced flavour.

Piccalilli versus Chow Chow:
When I was growing up, my mother occasionally purchased Crosse and Blackwell Chow Chow which was also English. She used it during the holidays to put on her ham. Although it was a long time ago, I suspect that this English Piccalilli is very similar to the Crosse and Blackwell Chow Chow that she used. Southern chow chow has similarities to English Piccalilli. However, the typical vegetables used in Southern chow chow include green tomatoes, bell peppers and cabbage. Also southern chow chow tends to use spirit vinegar. A big difference between the store-bought variety of Piccalilli and my English Piccalilli is the type of vinegar used. The store-bought variety uses spirit vinegar which is basically acetic acid mixed with water. According to the Master Taste Tester, the vinegar to use is malt vinegar, a British staple. Malt vinegar is made directly from fermented ale, in the same manner as red wine vinegar being made from wine. The result is a milder, sweeter and more complex flavour range than spirit vinegar. Given that vinegar is a major ingredient in piccalilli, the use of malt vinegar makes all the difference in the world. As an aside, have you ever wondered why the British use malt vinegar on their fish and chips? Well, the reason is that the acid in the vinegar neutralizes the fishy taste in the fish. This is the same reason that fish is often served with lemon. Now you know.

3 cups (8 oz) cauliflower florets, cut into small bite-sized pieces
1 cup (4 oz) sweet gherkins, thinly sliced (~ 10-12)
10 oz pearl onions, peeled
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
3 cups (24 oz) malt vinegar, divided
¾ cup (5.25 oz) granulated sugar
3 Tbsp. cornstarch
6 Tbsp. dry mustard
3 Tbsp. turmeric powder

Combine cauliflower florets, sliced gherkins and pearl onions in a large bowl. Sprinkle on Kosher salt; stir to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature overnight.

The next day, transfer vegetables to a colander; rinse well with cold water. Drain well.

Whisk together cornstarch, dry mustard, turmeric and 1 cup of vinegar in a small bowl. Set aside.

Add remaining 2 cups of vinegar and sugar to a large saucepan. Heat over medium heat until sugar has dissolved, about 2 minutes. Add cornstarch mixture. Whisk or stir constantly until bubbly and thickened, about 2 minutes.

Add vegetables; stir to combine. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally for 10-12 minutes, or until cauliflower starts to become tender. Remove from heat.

Transfer to sterilized jars; seal and process in boiling water.

Store in a cool, dark place for 6-8 weeks to allow the flavours to meld together.

How to Store:

Once opened, the jars must be kept in the refrigerator.
Unopened jars will keep for at least six months in a dark, cool place.

Cook's Notes:

To easily peel pearl onions, add to pan of boiling water. Boil for 3 minutes; transfer to ice water to stop cooking. When onions are cool enough to handle, slice off root end and pinch to release onion from the peel.
If you like a sweeter Piccalilli, you might want to add additional sugar to taste.
Cornstarch and corn flour are the same thing. Both are thickening agents.
I used Coleman's mustard powder which is traditional English mustard powder. It's generally readily available in grocery stores. If you can't find Coleman's you can use any mustard powder.
Taste the cauliflower; if it is too salty, soak in cold water for one hour. Drain thoroughly.
If the sauce seems too thick, add a Tbsp. or two of additional malt vinegar to the mixture.
The boiling water should cover the jars. Let them process for about 10 minutes. When you remove the jars, you should hear the pop that indicates that the jars are sealed.

Add To Your Recipes:

Piccalilli is usually used as a side dish and to complement cold dishes, but it can also be added into other recipes:
Omelets: Add a spoonful of piccalilli per each egg you're using in your omelet. Chop and sauté spinach, kale, or mustard greens; add the egg mixture, and grate some cheese like feta or ricotta for an out-of-this-world lunch.
Savoury Muffins: Add a spoonful of piccalilli per cup of batter to your savory muffin recipe (try our cheddar cheese muffin). If the batter seems too runny, add spoonfuls of flour, one at a time, until the batter seems good enough to bake.
Meatballs: Add ½ cup of piccalilli per ½ pound of meat. Because the pickled veggies bring moisture into the mix, have some breadcrumbs at hand, and add one handful at a time until the texture seems right to roll the meatballs.
Empanadas: Make empanadas from scratch adding 1 spoonful of piccalilli per cup of stuffing.