Eggplant Salsa (Sicilian Caponata)

Caponata is a Sicilian dish consisting of chopped fried aubergine and other vegetables, seasoned with olive oil, tomato sauce, celery, olives and capers, in an agrodolce sauce. Numerous local variants exist concerning the ingredients, by adding carrots, bell peppers, potatoes, pinenuts and raisins. Simple but appetizing, Sicilian caponata is the ideal summer and late summer side dish due to the presence of eggplant (and in some cases other summer vegetables). Everyone likes it and if desired it can also be used as a pasta sauce. This classic Sicilian appetizer or side dish is perfect for late summer meals. This recipe combines roasted (not fried) eggplant with sautéed bell pepper, celery, tomatoes, olives and capers. Red wine vinegar and honey make it irresistibly tangy and sweet. If you generally enjoy these bold flavors, you’re going to love caponata.

The Origins Of Caponata:
There are as many as 36 different varieties of caponata in the Mediterranean area alone, all of which have one thing in common: the main ingredients are vegetables of different types, all cut to roughly the same size. In Sicily, the origin of caponata is traced back to the word capone, or a white fish that used to be eaten only by those who had money or possessions; the people, on the other hand, replaced the fish with eggplant, and over time the use of fish completely disappeared, giving way to the version with only vegetables. Caponata was first mentioned in 1709 when St. Vinci's Etymologicum Siculum defines it as "acetarium et variis rebus minutium conficis" or "a salad and various small cooked things." Today in Sicily different variations of caponata are prepared with the addition of other ingredients depending on the region: for example, in Catania red and yellow peppers are also used, in Palermo it is prepared with eggplant, green olives, celery and tomato, and in Agrigento with the addition of black peppers and olives instead of green. The following is the original recipe for Palermo Sicilian caponata that includes the use of olives and of course capers since in beautiful Sicily capers are a must that, in this dish really make the most of them. Some people add very few grams of bitter cocoa for a stronger flavour.

1 large or 2 smallish eggplants, cut into 1" cubes (about 1¾ lbs)
½ tsp. fine sea salt, divided
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced
black pepper, freshly ground
2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
1 (14 oz) can crushed fire-roasted tomatoes
¼ cup green olives, preferrably; Castelvetrano, pitted, roughly chopped
¼ cup raisins, red or golden
¼ cup pinenuts
3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar or white wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. capers, drained
1 Tbsp. pure honey or sugar
¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
¼ cup fresh mint, flat-leaf parsley and/or basil, chopped

To Serve:
Homemade Crostini

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/200°C fan, Gas Mark 7). Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper to prevent the eggplant from sticking.

Place the cubed eggplant on the prepared pan. Sprinkle it with ¼ tsp. of the salt, drizzle with 3 Tbsp. olive oil, and promptly toss to coat (some of the eggplant pieces will be more saturated with oil than the others, and that's ok). Roast the eggplant in the oven for 30-35 minutes, stirring halfway, until deeply golden.

In the meantime, warm the remaining Tbsp. of olive oil in a medium Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper and celery. Season with the remaining ¼ tsp. salt and about 10 twists of black pepper. Cook until the onions are tender and just starting to turn golden, about 9-12 minutes, stirring often.

Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and stir to combine. Add the olives, raisins, pinenuts, vinegar, capers, honey, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf. Stir to combine. Simmer on medium-low heat for 10 minutes or so, stirring occasionally.

Remove and discard the bay leaf. Stir in the roasted eggplant and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Stir in most of the fresh herbs, reserving a small handful for garnish. Remove the pot from the heat.

Adjust to taste to find your desired balance of tangy, sweet, spicy, salty. Add more vinegar (by the Tbsp.), honey (by the tsp.), red pepper flakes (I like at least ¼ tsp. more for those who like spicy), and/or salt (for more overall flavour). Transfer it to a serving bowl and top with the remaining herbs.

For best flavour, allow the caponata to rest at room temperature for an hour, or longer in the refrigerator.

Serve warm or at room temperature (some even enjoy it chilled), with crostini if desired. Caponata will keep for about 5 days, covered, in the fridge. I suspect it would freeze well for several months, too.

Makes 6 side servings.

Cook's Notes:

• Aside from the eggplant and tomatoes, the vegetables here are flexible - you could add an extra bell pepper or omit the bell pepper entirely. You could add some carrot or zucchini or yellow squash.
• If you don't like raisins, leave them out. Not all caponata recipes call for them, anyway.
• You might enjoy pinenuts sprinkled on top, which is another regional variation.
• Make it vegan: Substitute sugar for the honey.