Salt Cod Paté (French Brandade Nîmoise)

Brandade is a traditional and much-loved dish of finely puréed, hydrated salt cod with olive oil, herbs and a touch of crème fraiche. Expect brandade as either a cold dip or hot entrée, the French first course, as well as a hot plat principal, the main course. In 1830 the chef Charles Durand (1766-1854) published his cookbook "Le Cuisinier," and the dish became famous all over France with his version of brandade now called Brandade à la Nîmoise, the Brandade of the city of Nîmes. Durand is famous for much more than a single dish and is called the Carême of Provencal cuisine. Despite the dish being on the best-selling lists two-hundred years ago versions of brandade are still very popular in bistros and all across southeastern France. The traditional brandade is made without potatoes.

2.2 lbs cod fillets (1 kg)
milk (20 cL)
extra-virgin olive oil (20 cL)
black pepper, freshly cracked

Have the cod fillets desalinated for 12 hours.

Drain and put in a saucepan. Cover with cold water and slowly bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and let poaching for little tremors for about 10 minutes. Drain the cod again, cut into a deep dish and remove any remaining edges.

Crush the cod roughly in a mortar with a pestle or wooden spoon.

Warm up the milk and olive oil. Then add them alternately to the cod, working vigorously the mixture with a wooden spoon.

Pepper and serve the brandade hot or lukewarm, possibly adding olives.

Makes 6 servings.