Cheese Fondue (Swiss Kaesefondue à la Suisse)

I was at first shocked by the lack of choice and rigidity in traditional Swiss cuisine. But with time I adjusted and learned to appreciate the rustic simplicity of the food. Cheese fondue is a staple, served in every auberge and café. Bubbling pots of cheese are served family-style at the table, accompanied by platters of air-dried beef and bowls of pickled onions and cornichons. Depending on the region, there are subtle nuances in flavour, dictated by the local cheese or, more specifically, what the cows were nibbling on in the hills. This is austere mountain food, born from rugged alpine life, where every mountain chalet had a cold room which stores home-crafted provisions to last a family through a winter. Nothing ss wasted - including stale bread.

This recipe is a classic cheese fondue that I have tweaked with time due to geography. For instance, Kirsch can be substituted for Calvados or Poire William. A fan of strong flavours, I leave the garlic in the cheese rather than remove it. The bread should be a dense peasant or levain style bread, at least one-day old to ensure cheese absorption. And, most importantly, I use the best quality aged Swiss-origin or French alpine cheese I can get my hands on. My favourites are a mix of aged Gruyère and Emmental. Finally, this recipe provides the optional addition of porcini to the cheese (which I strongly recommend) - another traditional way to serve fondue in Switzerland.

3 Tbsp. Kirsch, Calvados or Poire William
3 Tbsp. cornstarch
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper, freshly ground
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 small clove garlic, minced
1 lb alpine cheese such as; Gruyère, Emmental, Comté. (I use ⅔ Gruyère and ⅓ Emmental or Comte), freshly grated
1 oz dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water until reconstituted, drained, squeezed dry and coarsely chopped (optional)
1 loaf day-old peasant bread, cut in ¾" cubes

Have all of your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you start, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred.

Combine Calvados, cornstarch, salt, ½ tsp. black pepper and nutmeg in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve the cornstarch. Set aside.

Add wine and garlic to a large heavy saucepan. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance without bringing to a boil.

Add cheese one handful at a time, stirring constantly until each handful is melted before adding the next - do not let the fondue boil.

Once cheese is added, continue stirring one minute - do not let the fondue boil.

Stir in cornstarch. Continue stirring until mixture thickens to fondue consistency. (I find that some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, add 1 more Tbsp. cornstarch diluted with 2 Tbsp. white wine.)

If using porcini, stir the mushrooms into the cheese at this point.

Remove from heat. Pour cheese into a warm fondue pot. Serve immediately with lots of black pepper, freshly ground.

Cook's Note: Use the bread cubes on fondue forks to stir the fondue at the table. Avoid letting the fondue come to a boil.

Makes 4 servings.