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Brioche Fruitcake (Alsatian Kouglof)

alsatian-kouglofKouglof, also spelled gougelhof, kougelhof, gugelhupf, kugelhof, kugelopf, or kugelhopf (dizzy yet?), is an Alsatian brioche, usually garnished with almonds and raisins, and baked in a glazed earthenware mold that gives it the shape of a crown, or a turban. Similar brioches have been baked since the Middle Ages in a large area that also comprises Austria, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Flanders, and parts of Germany, but in my heart I think of it as a specialty from Alsace and Lorraine, because that’s the sort I’ve been exposed to. This recipe produces a not very sweet brioche, meant to be sliced and slathered with jam, honey, or the spread of your choice. And while kouglofs are classically garnished with almonds and raisins, you can try other combos of dried fruits and nuts, such as sour cherry and pistachio. This type of brioche takes well to a subtle citrus flavouring, too, so you could add a little orange flower water, finely grated citrus zest, and/or candied citrus peel. In Alsace, this famous bun is served on Sunday morning for breakfast. The Kougelhopf is also appreciated at the time of the apéritif, accompanied by a glass of gewurztraminer.

Dough:
all-purpose flour, unbleached (400 g)
2 eggs
1 tsp. sea salt
yeast (5 g)
sugar (100 g)
milk (200 mL)
butter (150 g)

Filling:
zante currant raisins (70 g)
golden raisins (70 g)
Kirsch (40 mL)
water (50 mL)
2-3 almonds

Syrup:
water (100 mL)
sugar (100 g)
2 Tbsp. Kirsch
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
lemon zest, freshly grated

Garnish:
confectioners' sugar

The night before, soak the raisins in a mix of water and Kirsch. If you forgot or don’t have the time, let the raisins soak for at least 1 hour.

The next day, let the butter at room temperature until it gets soft and warm up half of the milk. Add the yeast to the milk and let it sit for 15 minutes.

In a mixing bowl, mix the sugar, salt, eggs and the rest of the milk. Mix well until smooth.

Add in the flour and then the milk with yeast. Mix well and add the butter. Knead until the butter is well incorporated into the dough. The dough will still be sticky but it’s normal.

Cover the bowl and let it rise in a warm place for 1 hour (Ideal rise temperatures are between 80°F-90°F; higher temperatures may kill the yeast and keep the dough from rising; lower temperatures will slow the yeast activity which will increase your rise time. The oven is an ideal place for rising.).

After 1 hour, strain the raisins and add them to the dough. Knead for 10 minutes, cover and let it rise again for 1 hour.

After 1 hour, butter the kouglof pan and add almonds at the bottom. Then add the dough in the pan. Cover and let it rise 1 more hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4).

Place the kouglof in the oven and bake it for 40 minutes.

For the Syrup:
Simply add all the ingredients in a pot and wait until it boils. After the syrup starts boiling, cook for 5 minutes. Then let it cool down.

Take the kouglof out of the oven and let it cool down. Remove the kouglof from the pan and brush the syrup all over. Let the syrup dry and dust the kouglof with confectioners' sugar.


Cook's Notes:

  • Flour: That’s 2½ cups, but I encourage you to measure the flour by weight; it really is more accurate, and accuracy is especially important in yeast-based recipes such as this one.
  • Mold: If your earthenware kouglof mold is brand new, you will need to prep it before the first use, otherwise it might crack. First, place it in a large bowl of warm water to which you’ve added half a glass of oil, and soak for 24 hours. The next day, preheat the oven to 355°F (180°C, Gas Mark 4), pour a glass of milk into the (drained) mold, and bake in the oven for 30 minutes. Let cool completely, pour out the milk, and wipe before using. Kouglof molds should not be washed, but rather wiped clean with a damp towel.