Custard with Marsala and Fruit (Italian Sabayon or Zabaglione)

Sabayon: The Custardy Italian Sauce You Can Make Without a Recipe. One dish that couldn't exist without eggs but doesn't get its due is sabayon - zabaione (or zabaglione) to the Italians, who stake claim to its invention. It's a sauce traditionally made with wine, egg yolks and sugar, but sabayon is really more of a concept than a recipe. It doesn't have to be sweet, and you can vary the consistency based on how you intend to use it: as a standalone dessert, a sauce, even a drink. By whisking together egg yolks and a liquid of your choosing vigorously over heat, you aerate and emulsify, yielding an ephemeral mixture that's part custard, part froth, with a rich underlying flavour. It's like crème anglaise's bubblier, wittier cousin.

4 peaches
2 large egg yolks
3 Tbsp. Marsala wine
2 tsp. sugar
1 pt raspberries

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Prepare an ice-water bath. Place peaches in boiling water and cook 10 seconds. Drain, and immediately transfer peaches to ice-water bath. Remove peels using your fingers or a paring knife. Slice peaches in half and remove pit; set aside.

In a heatproof bowl set over (but not touching) simmering water, add egg yolks, Marsala, and sugar. Beat until mixture is creamy and thick, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat.

Divide peach halves evenly between 4 plates. Fill peach halves with berries and spoon over zabaglione. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.