Steak Tartare (French Tartare de Filet de Boeuf)

If we overlook the era before the discovery of fire, steak tartare can be traced back to the nomadic Huns, who were said to have placed raw meat under their horses’ saddles as they rode, to extract the blood and tenderize its fibers. The Tartars of Eurasia apparently did the same, possibly giving their name to the dish that would become popular in France thanks to Jules Verne. The author described a version of it in his Russian-themed novel Michel Strogoff, which led to steak tartare being served in Paris restaurants in the late 19th century. Early recipes often called for horsemeat, which gradually gave way to the less controversial beef. Inevitably served with pommes frites or sautéed potatoes, steak tartare remains a staple on brasserie and bistro menus. If the ingredients of the classic recipe are not in question, the presentation can vary wildly, ranging from pre-seasoned and neatly shaped meat to a do-it-yourself version in which the diner takes an active role. It can be served with a lemon vinaigrette, or a yoghurt sauce. Many restaurants serve this dish with a raw egg yolk on top of the tartare.

The key to a successful steak tartare is fresh beef, freshly hand-chopped at the very last minute and mixed tableside. A home meat grinder with a fairly wide mesh blade is nice to have, but you can and should use a very sharp knife and simply chop and chop and chop until fine. The texture will be superior. And do not dare use a food processor on this dish - you'll utterly destroy it.

2 large egg yolks
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
3 anchovy filets, minced
1 Tbsp. ketchup
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
3 dashes hot sauce
black pepper, freshly ground
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 oz Cognac or brandy (28 mL)
2 Tbsp. onion, freshly and finely chopped
1 Tbsp. capers
1 Tbsp. cornichons, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. Italian parsley, finely chopped
8-10 oz highest-quality beef tenderloin, trimmed of all silver skin, fat flap, gristle - leaving nothing but dark red beef

To Serve:
Dijon mustard
French fries
4 slices fine quality white bread, toasted, quartered, for toast points

Put 6 dinner plates in the freezer to chill.

Take the beef out of the refrigerator; it should be very cold. Using a very sharp chef’s knife, cut the steak into thin ¼" slices. Stack 3 of the slices and slice lengthwise, every ½", holding the stack in place. Then cut across the stack, again every ½", cutting the steak into ½" dice. Hold the chopped steak in a bowl set over crushed ice in a larger bowl.

Place the egg yolks in a large stainless-steel bowl and add the mustard and anchovies. Mix well, then add the ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce and pepper. Mix well again. Slowly whisk in the oil, then add the Cognac and mix again. Fold in the onion, capers, cornichons, and parsley.

Add the chopped meat to the bowl and mix well using a spoon or your hands.

Divide the meat evenly among the six chilled dinner plates and, using a ring mold or spatula, form it into disks on the plates.

Serve immediately with French fries, toasted bread points and Dijon mustard.

Makes 4 servings.

Wine Pairing: Joseph Drouhin Véro Pinot Noir, France. Steak tartare is a classic dish of Burgundy, so a Burgundian Pinot Noir is naturally a good wine choice. This one is inexpensive, simple, but pleasantly lively, with lovely flavours of cherry and raspberry. A peppery note will resonate with the tartare as well as the wine’s sprightly acidity.