Venison Pie (English)

There are pies and there are special pies like this Venison Pie. The lean meat belies the richness of the gravy and the layoured flavours provide comfort and deliciousness in this meal-in-one gem.

2¼ lbs shoulder or leg of red deer venison, cut into chunks (1 kg)
1½ oz drippings or lard (40 g)
2 large red onions, peeled and finely diced
1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
1 tsp. English mustard powder
4 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1 (18 oz) dark ale (500 mL)
1 Tbsp. soft brown sugar
3 Tbsp. malt vinegar
1-2 pinches ground nutmeg
1 sprig fresh thyme
flaked sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
2 ginger biscuits, grated

Topping:
8 oz block puff pastry (250 g)
extra flour, for dusting
1 medium egg, beaten with 1 Tbsp. milk

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4).

Have the butcher cut the venison into proper over-sized mouthfuls that might need cutting once on your plate, as these cook better than small chunks.

Heat the drippings in a large, lidded flameproof casserole on the hob and add the onions, frying them until they are soft and browned. Turn off the heat and sift the flour and mustard powder into the pot. Stir until you have a thick onion mix.

Add the meat and carrots and stir into the onions. (You are not pre-browning the meat, as with venison this makes it clench like a fist.) Add the ale, sugar, vinegar, nutmeg, thyme and pepper, and both ginger biscuits, finely grated. Stir once more. Do not add any salt; you’ll do this at the end.

Cover the contents of the pot with a circle of neatly cut greaseproof and put the lid on, then cook it in the preheated oven for 1½ hours. When the time is up, add a Tbsp. of salt.

Transfer the contents of the casserole to a pie dish. Use a deep dish, as a wide shallow one will have the pie crust drooping in the middle, thus becoming soggy.

Turn the temperature of the oven up to 400°F (200°C/180°C fan, Gas Mark 6).

Roll your pastry out to a thickness of about ¼" (7 mm) and lay it over your unctuous deer filling. Leave a slight overhang and crimp the edges with a fork. Paint the top of your pie evenly with the beaten egg and milk. This is the time to fashion any pastry motif appropriate to the occasion and place it on top. Prick a hole in the middle of the pastry, no larger than a wren’s eye.

Cook for 40-45 minutes, until the pastry is a rich hazelnut brown. If in doubt, cook a little longer, as pale, soggy pastry is not as pleasing.

Makes 6 servings.