Baked Loin of Venison with Red Wine Sauce (Irish)

Legend has it that when St. Patrick died, sometime in the latter fifth century, two oxen from Finnebrogue, near Downpatrick, County Down, were harnassed to pull his funeral cart, and that he was buried where they stopped, unbidden by a drover. Today, Finnebrogue Estate is famous for animals of a different kind: red deer, raised for Finnebrogue Ois'in venison, an excellent meat found on some of the best restaurant tables of Ireland and the United Kingdom. The Finnebrogue deer, slaughtered between the ages of nine and twenty-one months (ois'in is Irish for "fawn"), aren't exactly wild, but they range free over a 600 acre (243 hectares) property feeding on a natural diet. Their meat is tender and delicious, if not as gamy as some connoisseurs would like. Finnebrogue is worth ordering if you encounter it on an Irish menu. This is a classic recipe.

2 (12-16 oz) venison tenderloins (2x375-500 g)
sea salt
black pepper, coarsely ground
4 slices bacon, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. juniper berries, crushed
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 sprig fresh thyme
1½ cups red wine (360 mL)
4 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. arrowroot

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4).

Rub venison loins all over with salt and pepper. Tie the loins together with kitchen twine to make one loin and set aside.

Cook bacon in a heavy ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, then remove the bacon and drain on paper towels. Add the olive oil to the skillet, then add the juniper, rosemary, and thyme. Cook for 1 minute over medium-high heat. Add the venison loin and brown well on all sides, about 5 minutes.

Roast the venison in the skillet for 25-30 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 125°F (50°C).

Meanwhile, bring the red wine to a boil in a heavy-bottom saucepan over medium-high heat and continue boiling until reduced by half. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the butter 1 Tbsp. at a time. Dissolve the arrowroot in ⅓ cup (80 mL) cool water. Stir the mixture into the red wine sauce and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce begins to thicken (don't allow to boil).

Remove the venison from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes. Strain any accumulated juices from the meat into the sauce, discarding the juniper, rosemary, and thyme. Slice the venison into thick medallions. Serve garnished with bacon, with the sauce on the side.

Makes 4-6 servings.