Scrapple (Pennsylvania Pannhaas)

Scrapple, also known by the Pennsylvania Dutch name Pannhaas or "pan rabbit", is traditionally a mush of pork scraps and trimmings combined with cornmeal and wheat flour, often buckwheat flour, and spices. Many refer to Scrapple as mystery meat. Lips and, well, scraps. Scrapple is scorned by many, loved by those who know better. Yes, industrial scrapple literally used to be made from scrapings off the killing room floor. Ew. But any homemade scrapple recipe uses bits that are far more wholesome. Scrapple, by definition is a hybrid meatloaf-sausage common in the mid-Atlantic states, notably Delaware, Maryland and Pennsylvania, but it can be found as far west as Peoria, Illinois.

Scrapple tastes meaty and porky, peppery with warming spices and that softness you get from good polenta. Good scrapple is very crispy on the outside, soft in the center. Scrapple recipes are all over the map. Southern versions use only pork and cornmeal, but mid-Atlantic ones use buckwheat flour, too. In Ohio, you see goetta, which uses oats. This is a Pennsylvania-style scrapple. A truly authentic scrapple recipe use a pig’s head, and that’s what I used here. But you need not go that far if you really love scrapple. You can make it with any assortment of random pig bits. But keep in mind that scrapple has to bind to itself, so you want that collagen that is in a pig’s head. You could sub in pig’s feet, or even use a sheet of unflavored gelatin in a pinch.

Scrapple takes time to make, so make your scrapple on a weekend or day off. It also needs to rest overnight in the fridge to set up. Once made, however, scrapple will keep for a week in the fridge, and it freezes well. To serve, cut off thick slices from the loaf, dust in flour or fine cornmeal, then fry in butter, lard or bacon fat. Eat it solo, or serve it traditionally with apple butter or pure maple syrup. Which sounds weird at first (not for me since I'm from Québec where maple syrup is applied liberally to everything), but trust me, it's delish!

Pig's Head:
1 pig's head, with or without the jowls
3 carrots, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
3-6 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. juniper berries, crushed (optional)
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns, freshly cracked

Spice Mix:
1 Tbsp. black pepper, freshly ground
1 Tbsp. sea salt
1 Tbsp. savoury
2 tsp. poultry seasoning (optional)
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. white pepper, freshly ground
1/2 tsp. cayenne

Assembly:
2 heaping cups cornmeal
½ cup buckwheat flour

Set the pig's head in a large kettle and cover it with water. Bring this to a boil and skim off all the scum that floats to the surface. When this is done, add the carrots, onion, bay leaves, juniper and black peppercorns. Simmer this, adding more water if the level drops below the pig's head, until the meat wants to fall off the bone, about 3 hours.

Carefully remove the pig's head and pick off all the meat and random bits. I toss the eyes and the palate, which aren't very tasty. Chop everything up very fine, and combine with the spice mix in a bowl.

Strain your pig broth and pour about 10 cups into a large pot. Bring this to a simmer and add the cornmeal and buckwheat flour, stirring constantly so you don't get lumps. Add salt to taste. Cook this, stirring often, about 30 minutes.

Add the chopped pig bits in with the mush and stir well to combine. If you happen to be using the unflavored gelatin, now is when you would add it. Let this all cook for 10 minutes or so.

Pour this into loaf pans, or a terrine pan. While not strictly necessary, it will make the scrapple easier to remove if you line the pan with plastic wrap or parchment paper first. Pack it in well. Let it cool to room temperature uncovered, then cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight before slicing and pan frying.

Makes 4 lbs.