Pasta with Pancetta and Tomatoes (Baked)

We know ricotta is a traditional addition to baked ziti, but it has a tendency to get dry and grainy when baked. Our update uses a creamy Parmesan béchamel, in addition to a tangy tomato sauce, which together make for a super flavourful finished dish - that won’t dry out in the oven.

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
2¼ cups whole milk, slightly warmed
2½ cups Parmesan, grated, divided
Kosher salt
black pepper, freshly ground
¼ cup olive oil
1 oz pancetta (Italian bacon), finely chopped
1 large onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 (28 oz) can plus 1 (14 oz) can whole peeled tomatoes
¼ cup fresh basil, chopped
1 lb ziti, penne, or rigatoni
1 lb fresh mozzarella, cut into ½" pieces

Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium until foamy. Sprinkle flour over and cook, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Gradually whisk in warm milk. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, whisking often, until béchamel is thickened to about the consistency of heavy cream and no longer feels grainy when rubbed between your fingers, 8-10 minutes (thoroughly cooking the mixture ensures a creamy sauce and eliminates any raw flour flavour). Remove from heat and add 2 cups Parmesan, whisking until cheese is melted and sauce is smooth. Set aside.

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Cook pancetta, stirring often, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until onion is golden and soft, 8-10 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes.

Add whole peeled tomatoes, crushing with your hands as you go, and season with salt and pepper. Bring sauce to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until slightly reduced and flavours have melded, 20-25 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to a blender; pulse until mostly smooth (or use an immersion blender and purée directly in pot). Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°F. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 5 minutes (the pasta will continue to cook in the oven); drain.

Transfer reserved béchamel to a large bowl; add pasta and mozzarella and toss to combine. Add all but 1 cup tomato sauce and gently fold mixture a few times, leaving streaks of béchamel.

Transfer pasta mixture to a 13x9" or other 3-quart baking dish, dollop with remaining tomato sauce, and scatter remaining Parmesan over pasta.

Bake until mozzarella is melted and sauce is bubbling around the edges, 15-20 minutes.

Heat broiler. Broil until pasta and cheese are dark brown in spots, about 4 minutes. Let pasta sit 5 minutes before serving.