Oyster Rolls (Irish)

The oyster sandwich, or oyster loaf, is usually thought of as a specialty of New Orleans (where it is more commonly called a po' boy), and possibly of the Chesapeake Bay region. I was surprised, then, to find recipes for oysters loaves (little more than French bread hollowed out and filled with the bivalves) in two early- to mid-nineteenth-century recipe manuscripts in the National Library in Dublin, one by Mrs. Creagh of Creagh Castle in Ballinrobe, County Cork, and the other by Mrs. A.W. Baker of Ballytobin, County Kilkenny. This modern version of the dish, which I'd recommend for its simplicity if you're going to cook oysters at all, is adapted from Máirín Uí Chomáin's Irish Oyster Cuisine.

4 small French rolls, halved crosswise
3 Tbsp. butter, melted
½ cup heavy cream (120 mL)
¾ cup crème fraîche (175 mL)
16-24 fresh seasonal oysters (1½-2 lb/750 g-1 kg), shucked, with juices strained and reserved pepper

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C/210°C fan, Gas Mark 8).

Scoop out and discard some of the soft interior from the roll halves (or save the interiors to make breadcrumbs). Brush the cut surfaces generously with butter, then put the roll halves on a baking sheet and crisp them in the oven for 4-6 minutes or until golden brown.

Meanwhile, combine the cream, crème fraîche, and reserved oyster juices in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, whisking constantly, for 2-4 minutes or until the sauce thickens. Reduce the heat to low and add the oysters. Cook for 3-4 minutes or until the oysters are just cooked.

Put 2 roll halves on each of 4 plates and spoon oysters and sauce over them.

Makes 4 servings.