Potato Cream Soup with Bacon and Cheddar

The best potato soup recipes are warming, rib-sticking affairs designed to keep the winter blues at bay. This rendition is wonderfully rich thanks to a generous dose of melty cheddar cheese, a shower of crispy crumbled bacon and an undercurrent of onions, which you’ll sauté in the rendered bacon fat before deglazing with a splash of white wine. The potatoes lend somebody to the broth, but they will need a little help. Instead of a roux, this easy recipe uses a simple mixture of flour whisked into a measured amount of cold water before it’s added to the soup pot. For an even richer broth, substitute whole milk or more chicken stock for the water. Waxy potatoes work best here (think Red Bliss and similar types of potatoes), transforming from hard cubes to creamy, tender bites. You could also use Yukon Gold potatoes, but avoid russet potatoes or similar starchy varieties, which can break down and turn the broth gluey. For a fully loaded baked potato soup vibe, set out bowls of toppings, like the chives or sliced green onions, crispy shallots, roasted broccoli (or whatever veggies you like) and sour cream so that diners can customize their bowls of soup with the various garnishes.

4 slices bacon, cut into 1" pieces
1 large yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 lb waxy potatoes, such as red potatoes, new potatoes, or fingerling potatoes
¼ cup all-purpose flour, unbleached (31 g)
¼ cup dry white wine
1½ cups chicken broth
2 cups (~ 8 oz) sharp cheddar cheese, grated
sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
2 Tbsp. fresh chives, chopped

Cook 4 slices bacon, cut into 1" pieces, in a large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring often, until browned and crisp, 6-8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels or a wire rack to drain, reserving fat in pan.

Cook 1 large yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped, in reserved fat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel 1 lb waxy potatoes, such as red potatoes, new potatoes, or fingerling potatoes and cut into ½" dice and whisk ¼ cup (31 g) all-purpose flour with 1¾ cups water in a measuring cup; reserve both. Add ¼ cup dry white wine to onions and stir, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan; cook 1 minute. Add reserved flour mixture, followed by reserved potatoes and 1½ cups chicken broth; bring just to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until potatoes are just tender, 8-10 minutes.

Reduce heat to low and gradually stir in 2 cups (~ 8 oz) grated sharp cheddar cheese (do not let boil). Season with sea salt and freshly black pepper, freshly ground. Divide soup among four bowls, top with crispy bacon and 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives.

Makes 4 servings.

Make-Ahead: Potato soup can be made 1 day ahead; refrigerate in an airtight container and reheat over medium-low heat until steaming (don’t let boil).