Leek and Oatmeal Soup (Irish Brotchán Foltchep)

This is a modern version of the famous soup, also called brotchán (or brochan, or brothchán) roy, or "the king's soup," that is said to have been the favourite dish of Ireland's celebrated sixth-century spiritual and literary icon, St. Columkille. (Some sources say that Columkille's version included nettle tops and some scholars think that foltchep meant "onion" or "chive," not "leek"). It is in any case quite possibly the oldest traditional Irish dish for which it is possible to reconstruct a recipe.

3-4 medium leeks (should yield about 3 cups of white and light green when chopped)
3 Tbsp. butter
sea salt
½ cup Irish steel-cut oatmeal (80 g)
2 cups chicken stock (475 mL)
2-3 Tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped
½ tsp. ground mace
½-¾ cup heavy cream
black pepper, freshly ground

Garnish:
freshly chopped parsley

Clean the leeks (they can be a bit sandy, so you'll need to wash them well): Remove the outer layers if they're wilted. Cut off the tops of the leeks where they turn from light green to a deeper shade. Then cut off the tip ends of the roots, keeping enough so that the leaves remain attached. Slice the leeks into quarters lengthwise, keeping a bit of the root end intact so the leaves don't separate. Wash the leeks under cold running water, separating each leaf so the water can rinse away any sand or dirt. When the leeks are clean, shake them dry, then cut them into slices of ¼" or a bit less (discard the root ends).

Melt the butter in a 4 qt cooking pot over medium heat. When the butter is hot and bubbly, add the chopped leeks. Season to taste with salt, then sauté for about 3 minutes. Add the oats, then sauté for another minute, stirring often.

Add the chicken stock. Simmer the mixture until the oats are tender (about 30 minutes).

Meanwhile, wash and dry the parsley, then mince it (you may want to reserve a bit of parsley for garnish).

After the soup has cooked for 30 minutes, taste to make sure the oatmeal is thoroughly cooked (and continue cooking if not). Then add the cream and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Taste again, adding more salt if necessary. Add the black pepper. Stir in the chopped parsley, then cook for an additional minute.

Serve garnished with freshly chopped parsley.

Makes 4-6 servings.