Chili (Beef Brisket Texan)

Let’s be clear: Despite being the state dish since 1977, there is no definitive “real” Texas chili recipe. Chili cook-offs are serious business and Texans have strong beliefs about what constitutes a “bowl of red.” Should masa be used? How about tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, or tomato sauce? Hunks of beef chuck roast, or will any stew meat do? Served with cornbread or tortillas? Pretty much the only consensus is that in chili con carne (that is, chili with meat) no beans are allowed.

According to the state, only a Texan can prepare an authentic batch. So if you’re not from the Lone Star State, perhaps it’s safest to call this a Texas-style chili recipe. It gets its heft from a 5 lb brisket and earthy warmth from dried Ancho chiles, canned green chiles and a flurry of spices. Butternut squash rounds out the stew, which may seem like an outlier but, in fact, has long been a player in the Texas beef chili chronicles.

Braising the beef in a Dutch oven allows for evaporation (the kind you can’t get in a slow cooker or Instant Pot) and intensifies the broth. Opt for a Mexican lager, like Modelo or Pacifico, avoiding anything too hoppy or bitter. If you need an alcohol-free option, swap in beef broth or simply use water - there’s plenty of flavour here to make this the best chili you’ve ever tasted.

Sorry to mess with Texas, but there are other (very delicious) chili recipes in the world, like vegetarian chili with Fritos and sour cream, ground turkey chili enriched with smoky chipotles in adobo and a white chicken chili thickened with... shh, smashed beans.

6 large dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, coarsely torn (~ 3 oz)
6 large cloves garlic, peeled
2 Tbsp. chili powder
2 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. ground coriander
1½ tsp. sea salt
6 oz bacon, finely chopped
1¼ lb white onions, chopped (~ 4 cups)
1 (5 lb) flat-cut beef brisket, cut into 2½-3" cubes
black pepper, freshly ground
1 (14 oz) can (1¾ cups) fire-roasted diced tomatoes with green chiles
1 (12 oz) bottle Mexican beer
1 (7 oz) can green chiles, diced, roasted
½ cup fresh cilantro stems, finely chopped
4 cups butternut squash, seeded, peeled, cut into 1½-2" chunks (from a 3½ lb squash)

To Serve:
fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
red onion
pickled jalapeños
diced avocado
shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
warm corn or flour tortillas

Place 6 large dried ancho chiles (~ 3 oz), stemmed, seeded, coarsely torn, in a medium bowl. Pour enough boiling water over to cover. Soak until chiles soften, at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.

Drain chiles, reserving soaking liquid and transfer to a blender. Add 1 cup soaking liquid to chiles in blender along with 6 large cloves garlic, peeled, 2 Tbsp. chili powder, 2 tsp. cumin seeds, 1 tsp. dried oregano, 1 tsp. ground coriander and salt; blend to purée, adding more chile soaking liquid by ¼ cupfuls until mixture reaches a pourable consistency. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4).

Cook 6 oz bacon, finely chopped, in a Dutch oven or other heavy large ovenproof pot over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown. Add 1¼ lb onions, chopped (~ 4 cups). Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Season one 5 lb flat-cut beef brisket, cut into 2½-3" cubes, with sea salt and black pepper, freshly ground. Add to pot and stir to coat. Pour ancho chile purée over brisket. Add 1¾ cups fire-roasted diced tomatoes with green chiles with juices, one 12 oz bottle Mexican beer, one 7 oz can diced roasted green chiles and ½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems. Stir to coat.

Bring chili to simmer. Cover, place in oven and cook 2 hours.

Uncover chili, stir and continue cooking until beef is almost tender, about 1 hour more. Add 4 cups 1½-2" chunks seeded peeled butternut squash (from a 3½ lb squash); stir to coat. Cook, uncovered, until beef and squash are tender, adding more chile soaking liquid if needed to keep meat covered, about 45 minutes more. Season chili with salt and pepper. Tilt pot and spoon excess fat from surface.

Ladle chili into bowls and serve topped with fresh cilantro leaves, chopped red onion, pickled jalapeños, diced avocado, shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese and warm corn and/or flour tortillas (if using).

Makes 8-10 servings.

Make-Ahead: Chili can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool 1 hour then chill uncovered until cold, cover and keep chilled. Reheat on low.