Fish Stew (French Matelote Alsacienne)

A fundamental of Lorraine, this matelote recipe is a deliciously versatile freshwater fish stew. Seasoned with herbs and brought together in a rich, red wine base, it is understandably referred to as fisherman's coq au vin. What's truly lovely about this matelote recipe is that the hearty, comforting stew can be made quickly, yet tastes like it simmered on the stovetop for hours. Classic matelote can be made with any firm freshwater fish. For it to be a truly traditional preparation, though, it must include freshwater eel.

2 thick strips bacon, coarsely chopped
8 oz pearl onions, peeled
8 oz white mushrooms
2 cups fish stock
1 bay leaf
4 sprigs parsley
1 sprig thyme
1 clove
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 shallot, thinly sliced
½ tsp. sea salt
¼ tsp. black pepper, freshly ground
2 cups dry red wine
2 lbs freshwater fish or eel, cut into 2” pieces
1 Tbsp. beurre manie
8 large croutons

In a large saucepan set over medium heat, fry the bacon until it turns crisp and slightly browned around the edges. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

Pour all but 2 Tbsp. of the bacon grease out of the saucepan. Add the pearl onions and mushrooms to the pan and cook them just until they caramelize, about 15 minutes. Transfer the onions to a plate and cover them.

Tie the bay leaf, parsley, thyme, and clove into a bouquet garni. Add the fish stock, bouquet garni, onion, shallots, salt, and pepper to the pan. Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer the broth for 10 minutes.

Add the red wine and fish to the mixture and continue simmering it for 10 minutes. Add the pearl onions and mushrooms to the pan and simmer the mixture for 5 minutes.

Stir the beurre manie into the stew and remove the bouquet garni. Allow the matelote to simmer just until slightly thickened, about 2-3 minutes. (The stew will continue to thicken a bit as it cools.) Serve the matelote hot, with large croutons.

Makes 6-8 servings.