Grape Cake (Italian Torta Bertolina)

italian-tortabertolina Torta Bertolina, an Italian Grape Cake, is a traditional cake made in the Autumn with a kind of grapes called "uva fragola", a small grape, sweet and aromatic. It’s associated with the city of Crema in the province, Cremona, in Northern Italy. There are many different versions of this cake. It’s often made in a round pan, but at times people use a rectangular pan. The type of flour typically used is 00 flour, sometimes with part fine cornmeal, whole wheat flour or almond flour. I’ve seen some iterations that use fresh yeast and some that use baking powder, or the Italian equivalent, like these vanilla flavoured baking powder packets. Torta Bertolina can be made with butter, olive oil or a more neutral flavoured oil. There is a layer of grapes in the middle and one on top and a dusting of cane sugar before it hits the oven. The result is a fragrant, delectable, lick-your-fingers cake, perfect for dessert and why not, breakfast.

1 lb Concord or Thomcord grapes, washed and separated from stem (450 g)
1 stick unsalted butter, softened at room temperature (113 g)
¾ cup granulated sugar (170 g)
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1¾ cups 00 flour, pastry flour or all-purpose flour, unbleached (250 g)
2 tsp. baking powder (9 g)
½ tsp. fine sea salt
½ cup whole milk, at room temperature (120 mL)
2 Tbsp. cane sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4). Grease a 9" springform pan. Line the bottom with a round of parchment paper. Grease parchment. Flour pan, knocking out any excess.

In a bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt.

Place ¾ of the grapes into a bowl. Coat with 1 Tbsp. of flour mixture.

In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add butter and sugar. Beat over medium speed for 3-5 minutes, or until pale and fluffy. This can also be done with handheld beaters. Incorporate eggs, 1 at a time, until well-combined. Stir in the vanilla.

Mix wet and dry ingredients: Alternately add dry ingredients and milk to bowl of wet ingredients, in 2-3 additions each. Do not overmix.

Pour half of the batter into the pan and level it with the back of a wet spoon (the batter is dense and sticky). Arrange half of the floured grapes on top of the mixture. Sprinkle with 1 Tbsp. of cane sugar. Then, cover the grapes with the remaining batter leveling it well with a clean wet spoon. Try to spread it as much as you can and if some grapes move and get incorporated in the batter, that is totally fine. Place the remaining grapes on the surface without pressing them, and sprinkle the last Tbsp. of cane sugar on top.

Bake in a prepared oven for 45-60 minutes. Check after 35 minutes for doneness and then every 5 minutes, or until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean.

Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes. Run a small offset spatula or knife around the sides of the cake to loosen. Removed sides and bottom of pan. Cool cake directly on wire rack until room temperature. Serve with powdered sugar, if desired.

Makes 8-10 servings.

Cook's Notes:

If you cannot find concord grapes or a similar tart, black grape, try blackberries or blueberries instead.
Feel free to substitute pastry flour or all purpose flour for 00 flour. You can also make this cake with a combo of 00 flour or alternatives (1 cup, 140 g) and fine cornmeal (¾ cup, 110 g).
In Italy they use Paneangeli or something similar instead of baking powder and vanilla extract. I believe a half packet would work as a substitute, but I have not tested this, so not sure of the result.
To warm up your eggs quickly, place them in a bowl of hot water until them come to room temperature.
To soften the butter more quickly, place it in the microwave over power 2 or 3 for 10 second intervals or until desired texture.
You can also warm the milk in the microwave for a few seconds.
Store this cake in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days, in the fridge up to 5 days in the freezer up to 3 months. If freezing, I suggest wrapping individual slices in plastic wrap and placing in a ziplock bag. Defrost in fridge overnight.