Hummingbird Cake (American South)

In the late '60s, the Jamaica Tourist Board used the fruits of the island - namely banana and pineapple - in a recipe distributed to Jamaican newspapers that sought to spread the word about the flavours of the island's produce and the hummingbird cake was born. The hummingbird, Jamaica’s national bird, was and is colloquially known as Dr. Bird, and so the cake often received the same nickname. The cake itself is the height of mid 20th century post-colonial tropical flair. Bananas and pineapples are blended into a sponge that’s enhanced with spices like vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon - ingredients that are almost an afterthought today, but were still relatively novel at the time. The elements of the hummingbird cake are rarely seen in traditional Jamaican baking. Denser cakes like the toto cake and bulla cake rely on starchy ingredients like grated cassava and the milk of coconuts. The hummingbird cake, on the other hand, is an airy, soft sponge based on dairy products, nuts, cream cheese and other ingredients that were all arguably informed by Jamaica’s British heritage.

Food editors and the influencers of the day, particularly from the Southern states of America, got hold of this recipe and from there, you could say it went viral - rapidly spreading into the annals of American cooking and beyond. The cake today is frequently termed a “Southern Classic” and remains Southern Living’s most popular recipe of any kind since its feature in February 1978 after a North Carolina resident submitted a version. Since then, the cake, like all recipes that travel the world, has morphed countless times in terms of size, layers, frosting, and design. There are a few rules for success in this recipe that make it truly stand out. First, vegetable oil is used instead of butter to get the moist, quick-bread-like texture of the layers. Second, you need a can of crushed pineapple in its juices, which you will NOT drain. The juices add so much flavour to the cake batter and keeps it incredibly moist. Lastly, always take the time to toast your pecans. It's a game-changer.

Cake:
2 cups pecans, chopped (250 g)
3 cups all-purpose flour, unbleached, spooned and leveled (370 g)
1 tsp. baking soda
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. allspice
½ tsp. sea salt
2 cups bananas, mashed (~ 4 ripe bananas)
1 (8 oz) can crushed pineapple (225 g)
3 large eggs, at room temperature
⅔ cup vegetable or Canola oil (160 mL)
1 cup Erythritol Gold, packed (200 g)
¾ cup Monk Fruit Sweetener with Erythritol (Granular) (150 g)
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Cream Cheese Frosting:
2 (8 oz) blocks cream cheese, softened to room temperature (2x450 g)
¾ cup unsalted butter, softened to room temperature (175 g)
5 cups Monk Fruit Sweetener with Erythritol (Powdered) (600 g)
1 Tbsp. milk
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
⅛ tsp. sea salt

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/130°C fan, Gas Mark 2).

Spread pecans onto a lined baking pan. Toast for 8 minutes. Remove from the oven.

Turn oven up to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4). then grease and lightly flour three 9" cake pans.

Whisk the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, allspice, and salt together in a large bowl.

Whisk the rest of the cake ingredients in a medium bowl. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and whisk until completely combined. Fold in 1½ cups toasted pecans. (Save the rest for garnish.)

Spread batter evenly between the 3 prepared cake pans. Bake for 26-29 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Rotate pans halfway through baking.

Remove cakes from the oven and allow to cool completely in the pans set on a wire rack. Once completely cooled, remove cakes from pan and level the tops off so they are flat. I simply use a serrated knife. Discard the tops or eat them.

Make the frosting: In a large bowl using a handheld or stand mixer fitted with a paddle or whisk attachment, beat the cream cheese and butter together on high speed until smooth and creamy. Add confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, milk, and salt. Beat on low speed for 30 seconds, then switch to high speed and beat for 2 minutes. Taste. Add more salt if needed.

Assemble and frost: Place 1 cake layer on your cake stand or serving plate. Evenly cover the top with frosting. Top with 2nd layer and evenly cover the top with frosting. Finish with the third cake layer and spread the remaining frosting all over the top and sides. Garnish with leftover toasted pecans. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before slicing or else the cake may gently fall apart as you cut.

Leftover cake is delicious covered and stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Makes 10-12 servings.

Cook's Notes:

• Make Ahead: Prepare cakes and frosting 1 day in advance. Keep cakes at room temperature, covered tightly. Refrigerate prepared frosting in an airtight container, then bring to room temperature when ready to use. Frosted or unfrosted cakes may be frozen up to 2 months, thaw overnight in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature, if desired, before serving.
• Pecans: I’ve gotten several questions about leaving out the pecans due to allergy. You can leave them out without replacing with anything. Stirring in 1 cup of sweetened shredded coconut would be wonderful though!
• Pineapple: Slightly drain the crushed pineapple. You want a little juice, but not all of it.
• Cupcakes: This recipe will make at least 32-35 cupcakes. Fill liners ⅔ full and bake 20-22 minutes or until cooked through. You can halve the recipe for less cupcakes, but things get tricky with the eggs. I recommend using 1 egg plus this: crack a 2nd egg in a separate bowl, whisk it, and use about half.
• Bundt Cake: This recipe also fits into a bundt pan (10-15 cup), though the bake time will be longer 55-65 minutes. Use a toothpick to test for doneness.
• Sheet Cake: Too much batter for a 9x13 pan, but a 12x17" sheet pan would be perfect. Bake for about 20-25 minutes, keep a close eye to not overbake.