Partridge or Pheasant Pie

Partridge and pheasant both have delicate chicken-like meat with a distinct boost of flavour. This celebratory pie will be a hit.

4 partridges or 2 pheasants
1½ tsp. salt
¾ tsp. black pepper, freshly ground
4 bay leaves
8 slices bacon
4 oz cremini mushrooms
4 oz white mushrooms
2 onions, diced
2 carrots, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
3 sprigs fresh thyme
4 whole cloves
½ cup dry white wine
1½ cup leek white and light green parts only, chopped
¼ cup all-purpose flour, unbleached
2 egg yolks

Savoury Pastry:
2½ cups all-purpose flour, unbleached
1/3 cup whole wheat flour
¾ tsp. sea salt
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
1 pinch white pepper
¾ cups unsalted butter diced, chilled
1/3 cup lard, chilled, diced
½ cup milk

Sprinkle partridges inside and out with half of the salt and all of the pepper. Lay bay leaf over breast of each; wrap each with 2 strips bacon. (Use 2 bay leaves and 4 bacon for each pheasant.)

Spread onions, carrots and celery in greased roasting pan; place birds, breast side up, on top.

Roast in 450°F (230°C) oven until juices run clear when thigh is pierced and leg joints are loose, 30-40 minutes for partridges, 40-50 minutes for pheasants. Let cool enough to handle. Reserving bones, skin and bacon, strip meat off birds; slice and set aside.

Remove stems from mushrooms; slice caps thinly and set aside. In large saucepan, combine mushroom stems, roasted vegetables, thyme, cloves, reserved bones, skin and bacon and 4 cups (1 L) water; set aside.

Add wine to roasting pan and bring to boil, scraping up any brown bits; pour into saucepan and bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 1½ hours. Strain into clean saucepan; skim off fat, reserving 2 Tbsp. (25 mL). Boil over high heat until reduced to 1½ cups (375 mL).

Savoury Pastry: Meanwhile, in food processor or bowl, pulse together all-purpose and whole wheat flours, salt, nutmeg and pepper. Pulse or cut in butter and lard until in coarse crumbs. Pulse in milk until pastry holds together when pressed, adding up to 2 Tbsp. (25 mL) more milk if necessary. Turn out onto lightly floured surface; pat together. Divide in half; form into balls and flatten into discs. Wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes or until chilled.

Make-ahead: Refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

In a saucepan, heat reserved fat over medium heat; fry leeks, stirring often, until softened, 5-6 minutes. Sprinkle with flour; fry, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in reduced stock and bring to boil, stirring constantly. Add mushroom caps; boil for 2 minutes. Let cool slightly. Whisk in egg yolks. Stir in partridge meat.

On lightly floured surface, roll out 1 of the pastry discs and fit into 10" (25 cm) pie plate; pour in filling. Roll out remaining pastry; place over filling. Trim and crimp edge; brush top lightly with milk. If desired, cut out shapes from pastry scraps; place on pie and brush with milk. Cut vent holes in top.

Bake in bottom third of 425°F (220°C) oven for 15 minutes; reduce heat to 375°F (190°C) and bake until golden and filling is bubbling, about 30 minutes.

Makes 12 servings.