Chickpea Fries (French Panisse Provençale)

french-panisse2 Famous for its bouillabaisse, ever-flowing pastis, and rough reputation, the capital of Provence is also home to one of the best snacks France has to offer: panisse. Traditionally sold as a street snack in Marseille, panisses are small chickpea flour-based fritters fried to order, wrapped in quick to be oil-soaked paper, and eaten on the spot - preferably with rosé. Long cultivated and cooked in the Mediterranean region, chickpeas are easy to grow and store, and inexpensive to boot. According to Gérald Passédat, the three-Michelin-star chef and owner of Le Petit Nice in Marseille, chickpea flour - and the recipes made with it - came to the south of France via Italy's Liguria region. While you can find panisse all over the south, its home is in the port city of Marseille. Socca - another chickpea flour-based snack - reigns in Nice, two hours by car east of Marseille.

The difference between socca and panisse is in the cooking method. Socca is baked in the oven, and panisse is cooked first in a saucepan then fried. Even panisses found in Marseille and Nice are different: In Nice, they're sold in a round saucer shape, the result of the local tradition of using coffee saucers as molds for the batter. In Marseille, panisses are most often in long stick form, resembling thick-cut French fries. The French fry comparison is apt though limiting. While similar in shape and crisp outside texture, panisses have a creamy, almost custard-like interior, more reminiscent of polenta than potato.

While often eaten as an afternoon or pre-dinner snack, it serves as an excellent side for meat or fish dishes. If there are children around, the fried sticks are sometimes sprinkled with sugar. Regardless of when or how you serve them, do so fresh and hot, with a cold glass of rosé in close proximity. Sprinkled with flaky sea salt and black pepper, these crispy chickpea fries from Provence make for a satisfying snack. For the best results, fry in a thin layer of oil to prevent them from floating - the high-moisture dough browns best when it is allowed to sear on the surface of a hot skillet or griddle

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¾ tsp. kosher salt
2 cups (8 oz) fine chickpea flour, sifted
vegetable or canola oil, for frying
flaky sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground

Line a small rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or plastic wrap, lightly coat the surface with olive oil, and set by the stove.

In a medium pot, add the olive oil, butter, kosher salt, and 4 cups cold water. Bring to a simmer over high heat, then whisk in the chickpea flour and lower the heat to maintain a strong simmer. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and starts to bubble, then switch to a wooden spoon and continue cooking, stirring continuously, until the mixture is very thick and smooth, 8-10 minutes. Scrape onto the prepared baking sheet, and use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to smooth into an even ½" thick rectangle. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until dense and set, at least 3 hours and up to 1 day.

When you are ready to fry, unwrap the rectangle and unmold it onto a large cutting board. Using a long, sharp knife, cut into batons, each about 3" long and ½" thick. Line a large heatproof plate or baking sheet with paper towels and set by the stove.

In a large skillet, add enough vegetable oil to come ¼" up the sides of the skillet. Heat over medium-high until shimmering, then add the batons in batches, taking care not to crowd the pan. Cook until golden and crisp on the bottom, 3-5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, flip and continue cooking until deeply golden on the other side, 2-3 minutes more. Transfer the panisses to the prepared plate, and season generously with flaky salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining batons, adding more vegetable oil as needed. Serve hot.

Makes 6 servings.

Cook's Notes:

Panisse: The ideal panisse is crisp on the outside and smooth on the inside. Chickpea flour is both your main ingredient and the first key in obtaining the perfect balance of textures.
Batter: Since the texture of the panisse shifts with the texture of the flour used, seek out flour that is finely ground rather than coarse. While you could technically make the batter using chickpea flour and water alone, the addition of a little olive oil and/or butter helps prevent lumps and adds a welcome richness to the final panisse. Chefs run their batter through a sieve after cooking, ensuring a silky base for frying. You can also use a food mill or simply sift the chickpea flour before cooking.
Cooking: Make sure your water is hot - simmering, not boiling - and cook until the chickpea mixture is intensely thick - the texture of wet concrete or a triple thick milkshake; it won't set up enough to cut into pieces if it's undercooked. For frying, some cooks use only olive oil while others lean toward vegetable or a mix of the two to garner a higher smoking point.
Shapes: In Nice, you'll most often find panisses molded in rounds. In Marseille, they're cut into little sticks. It's the cook's choice, they can be cut into squares, sticks, or circles depending on your imagination.
Service: Most fried things are best served immediately and generously seasoned, and panisses are no exception. Offer the first batch to guests as the second goes into the oil - reserving one or two as a cook's treat, of course.