Bacon, Gruyère and Caramelized Onion Loaf (French Cake d’Alsace)

This savoury French cake is perfect for picnics, lunches and meals on the go. “Cake salé” is a catch-all term for the humble savoury loaves popular among French home cooks. This Alsace-inspired variation, studded with bacon, Gruyère and caramelized onion, tastes great straight from the oven, but it’s even better reheated (cooling it completely tenderizes the crumb). Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

5 Tbsp. butter, melted and cooled slightly
8 oz bacon, cut crosswise into ¼" lardons
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 cup full-fat (whole) buttermilk
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2½ cups all-purpose flour, unbleached (10½ oz.)
1½ tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. sea salt
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. black pepper, freshly ground
8 oz Comté, Gruyère or aged cheddar, freshly grated (2 cups)
3 Tbsp. parsley leaves, finely chopped 

Preheat an oven to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4). Position a rack in the center of the oven. Butter and flour a metal 9x5" loaf pan, tapping out any excess flour. 

In a large skillet set over low heat, cook the lardons until golden brown and their fat has rendered, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small bowl. 

To the pan with the rendered fat, add the onion and turn the heat to medium. (If the pan looks dry, add a Tbsp. of butter.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. 

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, oil and eggs, then whisk in the melted butter. 

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda and black pepper. Stir in the cheese, parsley, reserved bacon and onions. Add the buttermilk mixture, then use a silicone spatula to fold together the wet and dry ingredients until no streaks of flour remain. 

Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean or with a few crumbs attached, 45-50 minutes. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before unmolding, then serve warm or at room temperature. 

Makes 1 loaf.