Pickled Salmon (Irish)

According to The Sportsman in Ireland by "A Cosmopolite," originally published in 1840, the "Sportsman's breakfast" was "First, a large bowl of new milk which instantly disappeared; then a liberal allowance of cold salmon soaked in vinegar - a very common dish this and a bottle of port wine." Because salmon was so plentiful in Ireland until recent times, it was often preserved, not only by smoking but also by salting and pickling. The salted and pickled fish was an important item of export, especially in the north of the country, for instance from the port of Ballyshannon in Donegal. I found this recipe (with no quantities specified) in "Mrs. A. W. Baker's Cookery Book, Vol. 1," a manuscript dating from the early nineteenth century, from Ballytobin, County Kilkinney. Mrs. Baker notes that her pickled salmon "will keep three months in cold weather."

1 Tbsp. sea salt
1 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
1 Tbsp. ground mace
1 Tbsp. nutmeg, freshly grated or ground nutmeg
1 Tbsp. whole allspice (Jamaican pepper) berries
3 bay leaves
2 lbs salmon fillet, wild-caught if possible, cut crosswise into 6 pieces (1 kg)
6 bay leaves
2 cups white wine vinegar (475 mL)

To Serve:
brown soda bread and butter

Put 4 cups (1 L) of water into a large pot, then add the salt, peppercorns, mace, nutmeg, and allspice. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn off the heat and let rest for 10 minutes. Repeat the process twice more, then add the salmon to the pot and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then carefully lift the fish from the pot with a slotted spatula, being careful not to let it break apart. Set aside and allow to cool.

Strain the poaching liquid through a fine strainer or cheesecloth into a medium bowl, stir in the vinegar, and set aside to cool.

Put the bay leaves in one layer on the bottom of a glass or earthenware crock or baking dish with a cover, then lay the salmon pieces side by side on top of them. Pour the cooled poaching liquid over the salmon, making sure that it covers the fish entirely (add more water and vinegar if it doesn't).

Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 days and as long as a week, turning the fish once a day. Bring to room temperature and serve with brown soda bread and unsalted butter.

Makes 6 servings.