Salmon Fricassee

In this pescatarian take on the classic chicken entrée, salmon fillets are seared in a hot skillet to get their skin crispy, then braised in a bath of white wine, clam juice, fennel, and tarragon. A last minute mixture of cream and egg yolks enriches the cooking liquid, transforming it into a cling to your fork sauce destined for draping over the fish.

4 (6 oz) salmon fillets, preferably Wild Alaskan, skin on
sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
2 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped (1 cup)
1 stalk celery, cut into a ¼" dice (½ cup)
1 small fennel bulb, cored and cut into a ¼" dice (1 cup), plus tender fronds for serving
6 oz cremini mushrooms, halved or quartered if large (1½ cups)
4 tsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
½ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
2 (8 oz) bottles clam juice, or 2 cups fish stock, such as Bar Harbor
2 tarragon sprigs, plus picked leaves, sliced if large, for serving
1 small dried bay leaf, or half a large leaf
2 large egg yolks, room temperature
¼ cup heavy cream, room temperature
2 Tbsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed

To Serve:
cooked white rice or crusty bread

Season salmon with salt and pepper. Heat a large straight-sided skillet or wide, shallow pot over medium-high; add 1 Tbsp. butter and oil. When foam subsides, add salmon, skin sides down. Cook, undisturbed, until skin is crisp and fish turns opaque halfway up sides, about 5 minutes (if butter begins to brown, lower heat). Transfer salmon to a plate, skin sides up.

Reduce heat to medium-low; add shallots, celery, fennel, and mushrooms, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of skillet; season with salt and pepper. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until vegetables soften but don't develop colour and mushrooms become glossy, 7-9 minutes. Stir in flour; cook 1 minute. Add wine and bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until liquid just thickens, about 30 seconds. Add clam juice, tarragon sprigs, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, then partially cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer 10 minutes.

Return salmon to skillet, skin-sides up, along with any accumulated juices. Partially cover and continue simmering until just cooked through, 4-5 minutes. Transfer salmon to a plate; remove and discard herbs.

In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolks and cream. Slowly pour in ½ cup cooking liquid, whisking constantly. Stir cream mixture into skillet. Add remaining 1 Tbsp. butter and lemon juice, stirring until butter melts. Return salmon, skin-sides up, and any accumulated juices to skillet; simmer, uncovered, 30 seconds. Top with tarragon leaves and fennel fronds and serve with rice or bread.

Makes 4 servings.

Cook's Notes: To make this recipe gluten-free, replace the all-purpose flour with rice flour or Cup4Cup flour.