Puffed Potatoes (French Pommes Soufflé)

French-born Antoine Alciatore founded his eponymous restaurant in 1840. Not only is it one of the oldest restaurants in the states, but it brought many French haute cuisine dishes to New Orleans. Alciatore was trained in Marseilles in the early 1800s. There, he learned the technique for these potatoes - known in French as pommes de terre soufflées - from a chef named Collinet, who stumbled upon them quite by accident. The story, according to Antione's Cookbook, is that Collinet was preparing a feast for King Louis Philippe, but just as he began frying the potatoes he discovered that the king would be delayed. He pulled the par-cooked potatoes from the oil and finished them later in oil that had grown very hot. The potatoes unexpectedly inflated. He served them anyway as the King was expecting them, needless to say they were a big hit.

2-4 russet potatoes, peeled and ends trimmed
1 qt vegetable oil
coarse sea salt

To Serve:
béarnaise sauce

Using a food processor or mandolin, slice the potatoes to just under a ¼" thick. Slice into 1½" wide segments.

Place a few potato slices into 315°F oil, using the skimmer to vigorously stir the oil. Agitating the oil helps the potatoes create a skin that will then puff. Cook for about 2 minutes until blistered. In a second pot of oil heated to 360-375°F, dip the potatoes one at a time using a skimmer to baste them. Dip the potato in the oil, pull it out immediately, and jiggle the potato on the skimmer until it puffs. Set aside. I like to divide the ones that have puffed from the ones that are duds.

Let the potatoes cool - don’t worry if they deflate, that’s to be expected. This can be done the day before. When ready to serve, heat the oil to 360-375°F and add the “pre-puffed” potatoes in small batches, basting and jiggling with the skimmer as before. Once puffed, cook the potatoes until deep golden, about 2 minutes.

Remove to a paper towel and season with salt. Serve with béarnaise sauce or other dip.